CHIME LHAKHANG: the Abode of Fertility
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Overview
Of all the things that Bhutan is known for, it is perhaps the rich religious and cuttural tradition of the country that
puts it on the tourist map as one of the most exotic and must-visit destinations in the world today.
Bhutan's unique cultural heritage has remained intact and untarnished. Centuries-old traditions are in practice
to this day and continue to have tremendous value and significance in the daily life of the people
Mahayana Buddhism plays a dominant role in enriching and strengthening the socio-cultural fabric of the country.
Hundreds of Lhakhangs, or temples, dot the countryside with huge reservior of religious and cultural history
enclosed withint their colorful and mystical interiors. In fact every village in Bhutan has a temple and each temple
has a mesmerizing story to tell.
One such temple is Chime Lhakhang.
The Lhakhang is dedicated to Lam Drukpa Kuenley (1455 - 1570), one of the most popular Buddhist saints who
lived in Bhutan.
Of all the things that Bhutan is known for, it is perhaps the rich religious and cuttural tradition of the country that
puts it on the tourist map as one of the most exotic and must-visit destinations in the world today.
Bhutan's unique cultural heritage has remained intact and untarnished. Centuries-old traditions are in practice
to this day and continue to have tremendous value and significance in the daily life of the people
Mahayana Buddhism plays a dominant role in enriching and strengthening the socio-cultural fabric of the country.
Hundreds of Lhakhangs, or temples, dot the countryside with huge reservior of religious and cultural history
enclosed withint their colorful and mystical interiors. In fact every village in Bhutan has a temple and each temple
has a mesmerizing story to tell.
One such temple is Chime Lhakhang.
The Lhakhang is dedicated to Lam Drukpa Kuenley (1455 - 1570), one of the most popular Buddhist saints who
lived in Bhutan.
LOCATION
Chime Lhakhang lies on the periphery of the expansive valley of Lobesa where the borders of Thimphu,
Punakha and Wangduephodrang districts meet.
Lobesa means either "Place of Return" or "Beautiful Place".
There are various interpretations related to both the meanings -all of them different. Given the scenic and
breathtaking beauty of Lobesa though, a visitor would be rather inclined to believe that the latter meaning holds
true.
Perched atop a little hillock overlooking teh Puna Tsangchu river belt Chime Lhakhang is auspiciously
surrounded by nine khas or villages - Sosokha, Yuwakha, Gangmakha, Septokha, Sembjikha, Esakha,
Pachakha, Buewakha and Gangkha.
Of these, the villages of Sosokha and Yuwakha fall directly along the pathway to the Lhakhang. It takes
paaproximately two hours by car from the capital, Thimphu, to reach the village of Sosokha located right next to
the Thimphu-Punakha highway.
A brisk 15 minute walk through the two villages will lead a visitor stright to the Lhakhang.
A sense and feeling of fertility and contentment is indeed immediately palpable as one passes through the rich
alluvial paddy fields of the two villages.
All crops grow and thrive well here. Farmers of this region are in fact among the most well-to-do in bhutan. They
attribut this to the blessing of Lam Drukpa Kuenley.
"If Lam Drukpa Kuenley had not set foot in our village we would never have enjoyed such good luck and fortune,"
says a village elder of Yuwakha as she waters some chili seedlings in her field. "We feel his jinlab
(power/blessing) in every square inch of the soil here"
Chime Lhakhang lies on the periphery of the expansive valley of Lobesa where the borders of Thimphu,
Punakha and Wangduephodrang districts meet.
Lobesa means either "Place of Return" or "Beautiful Place".
There are various interpretations related to both the meanings -all of them different. Given the scenic and
breathtaking beauty of Lobesa though, a visitor would be rather inclined to believe that the latter meaning holds
true.
Perched atop a little hillock overlooking teh Puna Tsangchu river belt Chime Lhakhang is auspiciously
surrounded by nine khas or villages - Sosokha, Yuwakha, Gangmakha, Septokha, Sembjikha, Esakha,
Pachakha, Buewakha and Gangkha.
Of these, the villages of Sosokha and Yuwakha fall directly along the pathway to the Lhakhang. It takes
paaproximately two hours by car from the capital, Thimphu, to reach the village of Sosokha located right next to
the Thimphu-Punakha highway.
A brisk 15 minute walk through the two villages will lead a visitor stright to the Lhakhang.
A sense and feeling of fertility and contentment is indeed immediately palpable as one passes through the rich
alluvial paddy fields of the two villages.
All crops grow and thrive well here. Farmers of this region are in fact among the most well-to-do in bhutan. They
attribut this to the blessing of Lam Drukpa Kuenley.
"If Lam Drukpa Kuenley had not set foot in our village we would never have enjoyed such good luck and fortune,"
says a village elder of Yuwakha as she waters some chili seedlings in her field. "We feel his jinlab
(power/blessing) in every square inch of the soil here"
Lam Dukpa Kuenlay descended from an august lineage of the Drukpa Kagyu spiritual tradition established by
Tilopa, Naropa, Marpa and Milerepa. He was recognised as an incarnation of the great Mahasiddha, Saraha.
As a lam, Drukpa Kuenley is placed amongst teh highest leverls of sainthood. But he is remembered more
vividly for the outrageous nature of his teachings which were administered in the most unexpected ways, often
with strong sexual overtones and inclinations.
It was because of this style that he is remembered to this day by his devotees in the Himalayas as an eccentric
saint.
In Bhutan he is also a cultural icon around whom countless yarns of facts and fiction, and stories and legends
have been spun.
The mention of Lam Dukpa Kuenley, will invariably, draw a mischievous smile on the face of most Bhutanese
men and a red tinge in the face of many Bhutanese maidens.
It will also bring to mind the unorthodox antics which the lam used to clean the society of the many ills brounght
about by man and the evils which lurked within society itself.
Most Bhutanese can regale listeners with many bizarre and interesting stories of Lam Drukpa Kuenley.
Dressed in rags, stinking of alcohol, the foulmouthed figure of the lam roamed the valleys of the Himalayas. His
apparent disregard for the social norms began in his early years to the frustration of his own mother who did
not understand the unusual saintly-hood of her own son.
To all Buddhist, his single-minded purpose of seducing women only conveyed a spirituality of great depth. The
spirituality of Lam Drukpa Kuenlay was such that, according to "namthar" (religious history) he could take his
dirty rags of his body and hang them on the rays of the sun.
It was, however, not his pahllic power which elevated the lam to his spiritual status. It was the power of good
over evil which he represented.
Under the guise of uncontrolled lust and apparently thoughtless womanising, one of Drukpa Kuenlay's greatest
gifts to countless beneficiaries was: children. Through children the gift was life itself.
Chimi Lhakhang is today one of the most revered and visited temples in Bhutan. People from all conrners of the
country visit the lhakhang to seek blessings from Drukpa Kuenley.
In fact it is not the Bhutanese who receive blessings from the temple. People from all parts of the world come to
seek the blessings of fertility and conception from the temples.
Origin of "No DOG TEMPLE"
It is believed that around the time when Drukpa Kuenley first visited Bhutan, a demoness called Loro Duem
resided on the high pass of present-day Dochula. She devoured all those who attempted to cross the pass and
the people of the valley lived in absolute fear of her. Two more demonesses lived on two smaller mountain
passes -Helela and Sinchula. The three of them together terrorised the people causing them unspeakable
misery and suffering.
Tilopa, Naropa, Marpa and Milerepa. He was recognised as an incarnation of the great Mahasiddha, Saraha.
As a lam, Drukpa Kuenley is placed amongst teh highest leverls of sainthood. But he is remembered more
vividly for the outrageous nature of his teachings which were administered in the most unexpected ways, often
with strong sexual overtones and inclinations.
It was because of this style that he is remembered to this day by his devotees in the Himalayas as an eccentric
saint.
In Bhutan he is also a cultural icon around whom countless yarns of facts and fiction, and stories and legends
have been spun.
The mention of Lam Dukpa Kuenley, will invariably, draw a mischievous smile on the face of most Bhutanese
men and a red tinge in the face of many Bhutanese maidens.
It will also bring to mind the unorthodox antics which the lam used to clean the society of the many ills brounght
about by man and the evils which lurked within society itself.
Most Bhutanese can regale listeners with many bizarre and interesting stories of Lam Drukpa Kuenley.
Dressed in rags, stinking of alcohol, the foulmouthed figure of the lam roamed the valleys of the Himalayas. His
apparent disregard for the social norms began in his early years to the frustration of his own mother who did
not understand the unusual saintly-hood of her own son.
To all Buddhist, his single-minded purpose of seducing women only conveyed a spirituality of great depth. The
spirituality of Lam Drukpa Kuenlay was such that, according to "namthar" (religious history) he could take his
dirty rags of his body and hang them on the rays of the sun.
It was, however, not his pahllic power which elevated the lam to his spiritual status. It was the power of good
over evil which he represented.
Under the guise of uncontrolled lust and apparently thoughtless womanising, one of Drukpa Kuenlay's greatest
gifts to countless beneficiaries was: children. Through children the gift was life itself.
Chimi Lhakhang is today one of the most revered and visited temples in Bhutan. People from all conrners of the
country visit the lhakhang to seek blessings from Drukpa Kuenley.
In fact it is not the Bhutanese who receive blessings from the temple. People from all parts of the world come to
seek the blessings of fertility and conception from the temples.
Origin of "No DOG TEMPLE"
It is believed that around the time when Drukpa Kuenley first visited Bhutan, a demoness called Loro Duem
resided on the high pass of present-day Dochula. She devoured all those who attempted to cross the pass and
the people of the valley lived in absolute fear of her. Two more demonesses lived on two smaller mountain
passes -Helela and Sinchula. The three of them together terrorised the people causing them unspeakable
misery and suffering.